Seoul Attractions: Ihwa Mural Village- A neighborhood transformed by Art

This is the first time I heard of Ihwa Mural Village in Seoul, and I find the story behind it really inspiring, and one that we must try adopting locally.

For one, who would have thought of finding a hidden gem at the very top of Mt. Naksan?

Located less than a 10-minute walk uphill from the buzzing Daehakno area, this "moon village" or daldongne (so called because their locations high in the hills gave the people there a better view of the night sky) boasts of the rich collection of street art found in its walls. Metal sculptures stand guard over the laneways while brightly painted murals hide behind every corner. Steep staircases come alive with colorful paintings and mosaics.

The most captivating pieces are found on Guldari-gil, which starts in the backstreets of Daehakno, behind Marronnier Park at Hyehwa Station (Exit 2), and snakes its way up the hillside to the lower edge of Naksan Park and into the village, finally turning into Yulgokro 19-gil.

The narrow alleys showcase murals large and small, while sculptures dominate the road by the park. Maps direct visitors to the largest and most famous, but new paintings are always springing up.

But all these did not come easy for Ihwa-dong.

Only a decade ago, the neighborhood was set for demolition to clear away what was considered an aging and unattractive slum to make way for new development.

The residents of Ihwa-dong were primarily working class and poor people who couldn’t afford housing in the more convenient, flat, or central parts of the city. So the neighborhood stayed much the same even as rapid economic development in the ‘80s and ‘90s brought prosperity and high-rise apartment towers to other parts of the city. Finally, the area was slated for demolition and redevelopment, which would bring an end to both the area’s mid-century buildings and to the community that lived there.

In 2006 though, the city of Seoul, through the Art in City – Naksan Project, gave hope to the village by inviting dozens of artists selected by a local committee and were commissioned to create 64 different installations under the theme of “Mix, Connect and Get Together.” The plan to create a cultural space that would attract both foreign and domestic visitors was a success, and soon thousands of people were flocking up the mountainside to enjoy the new artistic ventures.

Unfortunately, the change came a bit too quickly for a number of Ihwa-dong’s long-term residents. Littering, noise, graffiti and other bad behavior on the part of tourists left many grumbling that the neighborhood was better off back when it was still neglected. About a year after the project began, many of the murals, amounting to almost half the original art, was removed at the residents’ request.

It wasn’t the end of the Mural Village, however. In 2013, artists again assembled to redecorate the area, adding another 60 displays and bringing the total number of works to well over a hundred. Along with professional artists, students from local institutions such as Kookmin, Konkuk, Chung-Ang, Dankook and Ewha Womans University all contributed works of their own. The display continues to evolve and expand its reach as more people join in the beautification efforts, lending a new sense of dynamism to the sleepy hillside village.

The tenor of the relationship between residents and visitors also changed for the better. Signs remind visitors that the neighborhood is a place where people live and whose daily lifestyle should be respected and not disturbed. The local artists whose work is on display here have put down real roots in the neighborhood, opening galleries and cafés that support artistic ventures and engage with the community.

Minoz would definitely want to take sefies with this really cute Lee Min Ho mural :)

Today, it’s a lively and thriving neighborhood that welcomes artists and visitors while still preserving the charm and intimate bonds of its long-standing and tight-knit community. It’s a surprising success story, and not one without challenges, but the Mural Village illustrates the ability of art and human ties to bring new life to the city.

Key Attractions in the Village:

• Lock Museum
• Ihwa-dong Village Museum
• Blacksmith Museum 
• Gaeppul Museum- devoted to displaying wine openers
• Live Well Memorial - for remembering the teachers of a local school for the underprivileged
• Naksan Park- provides green space and yet more art, along with stunning views of Seoul and the ancient city walls
• Ihwajang - a beautiful hanok and home of former president Rhee Syngman

There are not much full service restaurants in Ihwa-dong Mural Village, so tourists are advised to have their fill of food in  the Daehakno area. There are some small cafes and adventurous within the village though, and some of them are as follows:

• A-mong - offers coffee, tea, dumplings and ice cream
• On The Hill (T. 703-7044) - serves coffee, roll cakes and homemade teas in a renovated house that offers one of the best views in the neighborhood
• Gaemi Dabang(T. 3676-5995) - offers sandwiches, tea, coffee and a variety of makgeolli slush drinks and makgeolli-based baked goods 
• Dallyeora Gaemi(T. 762-5995) - offers a wider menu of traditional and fusion makgeolli, along with Western and Korean-style pub grub
• Jazz Story(T. 725-6537) - offers light drinking snacks with relaxing music

For those who want to stay overnight in the village, here are a couple of guesthouses that they may want to look into:

• Rose & Candy(T. 010-8828-3720) - offers basic but clean accommodations for those who want to stay in the village itself
• Eugene’s House (T. 741-3338)- a hanok-style homestay only a few minutes away from Mt. Naksan and the buzzing Daehakno area.

For more details and inquiries on Ihwa Mural Village, you may visit the official website of Jongno-gu Seoul HERE (look for Daehangno area).

For more information about Korean Tourism, you may visit the Korea Tourism Organization Official page, and follow them on Facebook and Twitter.

For Filipinos, follow Korea Tourism Organization Manila at Facebook, Twitter, and KakaoTalk (@ktomanila) for the latest updates on Korea tourism, events, tour packages and promos. :)

Credits to Seoul Magazine, Korea Tourism Organization (visitkorea.or.kr) and Korea Tourism Organization Manila